In this world of greater understanding that all things are connected, the idea of sending healing, love and blessings is not so impossible. We have science backing up metaphysics, such as String Theory. Mathematics has always known that many energies exist and Professor Stephen Hawkins has proven interdimensionality.
My idea and ongoing project is to get as many people as possible putting bottles of flower essences on a map. [Flower essences are a form of vibrational healing in liquid form, can be taken for emotional and mental problems.]In this way we can send healing vibrations to earthquakes, war zones, civil unrest, famines and disasters. This will facilitate healing of the planet and its peoples, flora and fauna.
I have in my spare room three maps. The first map has bottles of Harmony for Nature [to bring balance and harmony after trauma] on the North and South Poles and the seas. The second map has bottles of Harmony for Nature, Angel of Peace [to bring Peace after turmoil] and Water of Enlightenment [for Courage at times of great distress] on the disaster areas and earthquakes. I have e-mail notification of all the big earthquakes from the Unite States Geological Survey site. The third map is for the thirteen ongoing wars and conflicts that are happening round the globe. I have Calming of the Waters [it does what it says!] and Truth on Iraq at the moment.
Many people may have a bottle of Bach’s Rescue Remedy in their first aid or medicine chest, and an old school atlas. I would encourage you to search them out. Make the intention to send the healing vibrations from the bottle to your chosen location on a map. If you have access to many different bottles than you can play more!
A friend of mine when I told her about this project said that as soon as the London Bombings had occurred, she had got out a map of the underground and placed her essences upon it. Hopefully there are many who are doing the same.
Similarly you can send healing in this way to friends and family. Place the bottle of essence on a photograph or the person’s name written on a piece of paper.
Here is another thought you can send love and blessings and well intentioned thoughts to anywhere and anyone. Love and Blessings could be sent to all those people in need and the intention that aide, help, provisions will get to everyone that needs it. This could be done on a daily basis.
On our own sending positive thoughts is powerful. Collectively sending positive thoughts is hugely powerful. If many people put bottles of Flower essences on maps where there are disasters, wars and unrest we can effect great change and bring about healing. It maybe that like me you have sent some financial contribution, but this is what you can do to help where you do not have a bottomless pit of money! This is also a project that can be ongoing..
People by their thoughts and actions can change the world. We have the power to do great good, bring positive change, heal ourselves, the planet and its flora and fauna. We just have to want to do it, care enough.
By Robina Hearle.c
www.rosecottagefloweressences.co.uk
About The Author
Robina Hearle is a flower essence therapist and Reiki Master. She has a website at www.rosecottagefloweressences.co.uk.
Tue, May 26 2009 » Bouquet » No Comments
In Orchid Care The Flower Will Tell You About Some Diseases
Tale for orchid care the flower. The orchid flower is usually a thing of beauty. When diseases strike it can be tell - tale. Like the leaves, the flower can tell you a great deal. Let’s take a look at what we will learn…
Spotting of Flowers
A sign of fungal infection or mold is pink or light brown spots on the flower. When you see either, orchid care will suggest to be careful with your other plants as the infection can spread to other plants.
Remove the orchid flowers that are affected. The remedy is to get more circulation.
Flowers With Punctures
Yes, those aphids can get at orchids, too. Also, some insects including Thrips.
Orchid care the flower suggests that the remedy is spray the orchid with malathion, but be careful and use a face mask.
Flowers With Mottled Colors
Here caring for orchids will strongly suggest a second opinion is necessary. The cause could be a color losing virus. Even if this is suspected then isolate the plant. If it is a virus then you need to destroy the plant.
Bruised Flowers
The causes of bruising are many. It could simply be from mechanical injury. If this is the case the area of damage will not increase or go on to other flowers.
But it could also be from slugs or even cockroaches. You may need to investigate and use some dust to bait them. If from cockroaches then diazinon or Sevin on the ground around the plant, on the plant and the pot as well.
Caring for orchids also shows that the bruising can be from red aphids. If so use the malathion treatment.
Rapid Wilting Of The Flower
If you see wilting of the flower, especially the dorsal or upper septal this can be caused by a sudden temperature change or pollination from an “unknown” pollinator. (I didn’t think orchid flowers were that particular!!). The remedies are those that make sense, moderate the temp changes and remove the affected flowers. Not sure what to do for the unknown attacker.
Deformed Flowers
Caring for orchids is not complete without the a word about deformed orchids.
Common causes include;
low humidity or high temp when the buds were developing
mechanical or chemical injury during bud formation
the bud has acquired an unexplained deformity
the potential of a virus infection, (you see many of the flowers have the deformity). Need to isolate the plant.
Caring for orchids does involve looking at the “whole plant”. In orchid care the flower is important.
Visit our Orchid Store: http://www.orchid-store.orchids-plus-more.com
** This article can be used freely as long as the author and the Orchids-Plus-More.com are identified within the article
This site http://www.orchids-plus-more.com is devoted to these wonderful orchid plants. Did you know they are the second in popularity only to the poinsettia plants? You will find a good deal of information on how easy orchid care really is. They are wonderful to have around your home or for that special gift. Orchid flowers are beautiful and can last for years. Your plant will be appreciated for years and years.
Sat, May 23 2009 » Bouquet » No Comments
Christmas wreaths are an old Christmas tradition that is used to decorate the outside of the house, typically on the front door, to give Christmas time visitors a festive greeting.
To make a Christmas wreath you will need a wreath ring, florist wire (you can get these cheaply from our local florist) and some vegetation.
Take a walk around your local park, your garden or in the countryside. Take a bag and some scissors with you and collect interesting vegetation to make a Christmas wreath. Under no circumstances should you pick plants from other people’s gardens unless you have their permission to do so.
Collect evergreens, ivy and loral leave are good. Some leaves are a silvery grey; these add a frosty feeling to the wreath. Conifers are popular in people’s gardens. Do you have a conifer in your garden? Conifers don’t have overly interesting foliage but they make a great base to the wreath.
Also look out for holly or other shrubs that bear berries. Berries add colour to the wreath. Look out for dried seedpods such as poppies, teasels and pinecones. Seedpods can be spray painted silver or gold and used to add interest to the wreath. If you do intend to use spray paint any pieces do this well in advance of the day you intend to make the wreath to give the paint enough time to dry. When using spray paint always closely follow the direction of use printed on the back of the tin.
To make the wreath
To attach pieces of foliage to the wreath ring you cut to piece to length and wrap the wire around the lower end of the foliage and then twist the wire around the wreath ring with another piece of wire. Repeat this procedure an inch or two further down the stem.
During the first round of the wreath the foliage will slide around a little bit but the more you put on the more stable it will become. Keep your work flat on a tabletop to prevent movement.
Much of building the wreath is to place your foliage to make something pleasing to the eye, with interest around the whole of the wreath.
However there are some general rules of the thumb.
Use the inner and outer rings as separate ’rounds’ filling both rings makes a full plush wreath.
You will find that you can make rounds appear to have a direction. This is when the stems all lay the same way. Wreaths look best if a round follows the same direction. However, the two rings on the wreath ring don’t necessarily have to go in the same direction.
The more you add, the better it looks.
Save the ‘feature’ or fancier pieces until last so that they sit on the top layer of the wreath where they can be seen.
To add pine cones, wrap some wore around the bottom layer of the cone seeds, and twist the two wire stems firmly together and push the wire into the wreath and twist them together at the back of the wreath. You could also wire on Christmas baubles.
When the wreath is finished hang it on your front door for all to see and appreciate.
S. Roberts writes for www.santaspostbag.co.uk where Santa writes FREE personalised emails and children can write and tell Father Christmas their Christmas wish list. For images of the Christmas wreath visit www.santaspostbag.co.uk/how-to-make-a-christmas-wreath.html SantasPostbag is in association with www.bigboystoyz.com
Wed, May 20 2009 » Bouquet » No Comments
What is the Spirit of Recovery?
The Spirit of Recovery is based on biblical principles.
It is our intention to provide a service to the community and to our Creator.
Our hope is to provide a means for people to succeed in business with an emphasis on families.
Our Goal is to be a part of the strengthening of the family unit by providing a path that we too have at one time or another walked. Hopefully we can guide the people around some of the traps and snares in business and in life.
The Founder of CrowSites.com has had great challenges in the past, with sickness, tragedy, injury that caused great loss to him and his loved ones. Through many struggles, much perseverance and the Grace of our Creator he overcame what seemed to be “against all odds”.
His personal mission now is to use the negative experiences as well as the positive ones to help others.
This is his story which explains why he has this mission.
After a horrible accident which crushed my shoulder, sent the C1 vertebrae ? inch into my brainstem and a severe brain injury our family was left with little to no income and as time passed we began to lose everything to the point of being homeless and living on the street. This is a very cruel and painful way for a man to see his family have to live. One day a man stopped us on the street and asked us what was going on. He asked how this happened and we explained. We were dirty, tired, hungry, scared and losing all hope fast. This man put us into the car, as dirty as we were and said nothing. He went and got us a place to stay, clean clothes and food. He handed me an envelope and said here, I hope this will help. I was in awe! I asked for his address or a way to contact him to repay him. He refused, but He did ask me to make him one promise, a solemn promise. He asked me to promise, that when I overcame that I would do one thing, “Pay it forward”.
I made that promise After recovering for a few days in a warm place, clean and filled with food, I used the resources he had given to get into a Rehabilitation Program. I spent two years learning to do a lot of things over again. Overcoming the injuries, learning how to live again and I was given an intensive education in marketing and business. I worked hard and felt like giving up on more than one occasion but I pushed on. For all my hard work and perseverance I was given the very honorable award of “Client of the Year Award” for the entire state out of thousands of nominees. A dinner was held in my honor with an award from the Governor. I made a promise to that man that day long ago and to my self the day I received the award. My promise was to try to help take one tear from a child’s eye, one tear from a mother’s eye and one tear from a father’s eye.
This brings us to the here and now.
Do you know a family who needs help to get back on track?
Contact helpafamily@crowsites.com or wanttohelpafamily@crowsites.com
CrowSites.com is the next internet trend dont miss out on this amazing business. http://www.EzineCrow.com - A Division of http://www.CrowSites.com
Copyright 2005 Crowsites.com
Sun, May 17 2009 » Bouquet » No Comments
The Calla Lilies are plants belonging to the Zantedeschia genus in the Araceae family. The genus contains seven plant species and they are all commonly referred to as Calla Lillies. Some of them have other common names as well. Zantedeschia aethiopica is also known as giant white arum lily and common arum lily. Zantedeschia albomaculata is sometimes sold as spotted arum lily, and Zantedeschia rehmannii is known as the pink arum lily. Zantedeschia elliottiana has a yellow shade and is therefore called yellow or golden arum lily. The other three species, Zantedeschia odorata, Zantedeschia jucunda and Zantedeschia pentlandii, are usually called just Calla Lilies.
All the Calla Lilies originate from the African continent and are found wild between north Malawi and South Africa. They are often referred to as Arum Lilies. The Calla Lilies should not be confused with the flowers found in the genus named Calla that can be found in the Araceae family. This genus contains only one species, the Calla palustris, and unlike the Calla Lilies, this plant is native to cool regions in the temperate zoon and grows wild in Europe, North America and northern Asia. Another source of confusion regarding the Calla Lilies is that they actually do not belong to the family of the lilies.
The Calla Lilies are all rhizomatous plants that can reach a height of 1-2.5 meters. The leaves will grow up to 45 centimetres. The name Calla is derived from the Greek language and means ‘beautiful’ and this is a very appropriate name since the Calla Lilies are appreciated world wide for their exquisite beauty. In regions too cold for these flowers, they are cultivated indoors in homes and greenhouses. When you plant your Calla Lily, it is important that the soil is free from salt since Calla Lilies are very sensitive to salt. As long as you provide your Calla Lily with appropriate soil, plenty of water and lot of sunlight it is actually a though and durable plant that grows fast. Use a nutritious soil that drains easily. Place your Calla Lily in direct sunlight or light shade. Calla Lilies will do best when the temperatures are kept over 70 degrees F.
An outdoor living Calla Lily will usually require no fertilization as long as it has been planted in rich soil. Indoor Calla Lilies, or outdoor Calla Lilies that are planted in pots, should be given liquid plant food regularly. You can either mix a very weak plant food solution and use every time you water your Calla Lily, or mix a little stronger - but still quite mild - solution and feed your plant every three weeks.
When the blossoming period is over, you should allow the foliage of the plant to mature. Remove the flowers as the start to fade and wither. Slowly decrease the amount of water until the leaves have turned black. The tubers need at least 3 months to rest before they can bloom again. Since the Calla Lily grows fast it will eventually require repotting, and this is the ideal time to do so.
Read More information about Calla lilies and their use as in everything from gardens to Calla lily bouquet
Thu, May 14 2009 » Bouquet » No Comments
In the previous article I discussed design for your new wild flower garden. The next stage is planning the planting. This is an exciting stage, we are just a few steps away from turning your garden design concept into a reality. But first things first.
If you have completed your design, does it fit within your budget? If it does, that’s great, if not now is the time to go back and make some changes. Before you go to the garden center or hardware, you will need to have a final shopping list. This will help you stay within budget and ensure that you have all the materials on handbefore you start your project.
From the design stage you will have factored in such items as concrete or mulch for walkways, brick for walls, seating, water features or lighting or any other accessories you might want to add to your new garden. Before you begin preparing the ground for planting, the hardscaping should be completed.
Now you will need to work out your plant requirements. Be sure to consider the following before making a final decision on plant choices:
- Some plants are invasive and banned from use in some areas. If you are not sure of the requirements check it out with your local authority.
- They should love the conditions in your garden
- If they do they will thrive, saving you time, money and the effort of replacing those that fail. The conditions to be considered in your garden are light moisture, wind factor and soil type.
- Remember the mature height and spread of each plant
- I know it is tempting, but please do not overplant. That 6″ plant that you buy today could grow to a height and spread of 6 feet. If you do not take this into account, you will spend many unnecessary hours thinning out your garden rather than just enjoying it.
- They should blend into your existing surroundings.
- Color, height, plant type, annual or perennial, ongoing maintenance.
- An inexpensive way to help you choose colors that will work well together, use a paint chart and select from colors in the same grouping
- The finished garden should serve your purpose
- It should be a constant source of enjoyment to you.
- Maintenance requirements should fit with your lifestyle.
When you have decided on your plant list, having taken all of the above into account, shop around if possible. I have seen big varieties in price and quality for the same plants in the same area.
Choose only healthy plants to give your flower garden the best possible start.
The next and final article of this series, discusses planting requirements.
Gabrielle Bennett is a gardener with many years experience gardening in different climates. More information on Wild Flower Gardens can be found at http://www.complete-flower-garden.com
This article “Wild Flower Garden - Plan to Plant” is part of the article series “Wild Flower Garden - Recreate the Splendor of Nature in Your Own Backyard”. Any or all of the articles in the series are free to use as long as the following is attached: - Author Gabrielle Bennett: http://www.complete-flower-garden.com
Mon, May 11 2009 » Bouquet » No Comments
Roses are some of the most beautiful flowers in existence. They are one of the most commonly grown flowers around the world because there are so many different varieties and they will grow in most climates around the world, needing no special heat or cold requirements to flower.
They are however not without problems. In order to grow roses first consider the location in the garden. Remember the colour of the rose and judge if it fits into the layout your garden. Just because the rose itself might be pretty does not mean you can just place it anywhere, it should still match your colour schemes. Consideration should also be given to the height of the surrounding plants, Roses can grow in numerous sizes from huge standards to dwarf to large hedges and overhangs.
Roses are a strong enough flower to hold there own needing nothing else to set them off. In the case of climbing roses ensure you have plenty of frames for them to grow on. In planting the rose ensure its in a place where it gets approximately 6 hours of unfiltered sunlight a day if you want it to thrive. Further plant it out with a Rose mix which can be brought in bags and are made to ensure the right combination of minerals to get the best out of your rose. Make sure to water them until they are established.
One of the greatest problems with Roses are that they attract Aphids. In fact a healthy bush seems to mean just a greater feast for these pests. A shop brought insecticide used as per instructions soon deals with these pests. If you want a more organic approach try a generous garlic spray.
Other problems can include scale, blackspot and fungus. Once again go to your shop or garden center, there are sprays particularly dedicated to these problems.
Apart from these on the whole Roses are easy to grow which is why they are so popular. They look beautiful and the colours go from bright reds to yellows, orange, apricot, pink, blue, brown and with selective breeding the numbers just keep growing.
After flowering season don’t forget to pune heavily. I don’t think one can over pune a rose. They just grow back with even more vigor the next season. In the case of grafted roses make sure you cut off any suckers from the root stock.
Roses are beautiful in the garden, but its hard to resist the temptation and cut some to bring inside. If you are going to do so, cut them just on the point of opening. If they are already open they won’t last long at all. To increase how long they last try putting them in Sprite (I know it sounds strange but give it a go).
For more on Roses visit http://caring-for-roses.blogspot.com
This article is the property of Alastair HARRIS and his immediate family. It may be freely republished over the internet but must include original links.
Alastair HARRIS is the main promoter for article-gems.com article directory (visit http://www.article-gems.com) and the getfinancialfreedom4u family of websites, blogs and projects (visit http://getfinancialfreedom4u.ws) specializing in online business opportunities and education, income being generated by affiliate marketing, google, GDI, eBay, clip flipping and more. Alastair is rated as an expert author on numerous article directories and is very open to assisting others on the internet
Fri, May 8 2009 » Bouquet » No Comments
Hardy annuals are wonderful colorful plants for providing a summer-long display. Some kinds can also be sown during the fall with a view to providing late spring and early summer blossoms as well, especially in warmer districts. However, there are insufficient different varieties available that will respond to this method of cultivation to enable a border solely of early flowering annuals to be created in cooler parts of the country.
In cool winter areas fall-sown annuals are more usually grown to create highlights in the mixed border. However, it is generally conceded that in most gardens spring sown annuals are the only option available to the gardener, especially where the soil freezes solid during the winter and there is heavy snowfall. Few over-wintering annual flowers can endure such conditions.
Not that this is much of an impediment, for most gardeners agree that an annual that is raised from seed that grows on unchecked into the summer is likely to make a better plant, even if later flowering, than one that has over-wintered, even under mild conditions.
An annual border should be sown on soil that is crumbly and will rake out into a fine tilth. In order to achieve suitable soil conditions preparations should be made well before sowing. When spring sowing is proposed turn the soil over in as large lumps as possible during the fall and winter and allow it to weather. It will then break down into a crumbly tilth in the spring that is perfect to receive the seeds.
For most annuals the incorporation of well-rotted garden compost or manure into the soil is beneficial when digging, as it will then have time to decompose properly before the seeds are sown. However, leave it out of any areas where plants like nasturtiums might be expected to grow. These much prefer a lean hungry soil. A rich soil promotes lush leafy growth at the expense of flowers.
With the soil raked and leveled, shuffle across it with the feet from side to side. This creates a firm seed bed and does not compact the soil and make root penetration difficult. Rake the soil gently to level it and then mark out the areas designated to each annual with a trail of sand. Make bold groups rather than intricate patterns, generally arranging the taller varieties to the back of the border.
When sowing the seeds, rather than broadcasting or scattering them over each designated area as is traditional, create short drills at the distance apart at which the plants should eventually be spaced. Sow the seeds, covering them by about their own depth with soil. By sowing in drills it is then easy to determine which seedlings are annuals and which are weeds in the early stages of growth. As the annual seedlings grow they should be thinned to final spacing in the row equal to the spacing between the rows.
Philip Swindells has over 40 years gardening experience. A former botanical garden curator and an international horticultural consultant, he has worked extensively overseas. The Author of more than 50 gardening books, he has been awarded a Quill and Trowel Award by the Garden Writers’ Association of America. He is also a former UK Garden Writer of the Year. He writes a popular daily gardening blog with gardening news, views and updates http://www.gardenmessenger.blogspot.com.
Tue, May 5 2009 » Bouquet » No Comments
Bulbs are your best bet for success. It’s almost impossible to make a mistake because all the nutrients that the flower needs, are in the bulb. What you may find difficult, is actually choosing which bulbs you want.
This article will help you select healthy bulbs and will give you tips on how to get them ready, from preparing the soil, fertilizing, and planting.
Selecting Healthy Bulbs
The secret to a fantastic flower garden is choosing high-quality bulbs. Make sure that you always buy your bulbs from a reliable source, whether you are shopping from a catalog, outlet or local store. Even if the bulbs are a little more costly, you will save money on the long run, if the source is a good one, than simply searching for the best bargain.
Because the bulb stores the energy in the bulb (in the form of starch,) larger bulbs may produce larger flowers. This does not mean however, that you should buy only large bulbs. Don’t hesitate to buy smaller ones as well from a reliable source. These smaller bulbs may just need a season or two to catch up to the larger ones. If you want to have spectacular blooms this year, then buy the larger bulbs.
If you’re buying your bulbs from a local store, inspect them carefully. They should be firm and not have any cuts, blemishes or spots on them. They should not feel dry or light, but more on the heavy side for their size. The basal plate (where the roots emerge) should be solid and firm. It’s okay for the bulbs to have loose skin or little nicks. This would not affect their development in any way.
Getting Ready
It’s always important to choose the right spot for your bulbs, whether it be inside or outside. You probably know about the differences in planting in the garden; how certain plants will thrive better under certain conditions than others.
When you select your location for your new bulbs, try to think about its needs and where it may do best. Don’t forget that even a few feet can make a huge difference with levels of light. What may be suitable lighting at the edge of your shrubs may not be suitable over by the corner of your house, even if it’s only a small jog away.
Preparing the Soil
Except for Siberian irises, most bulbs prefer loose, porous soil because they need to have good drainage. If your soil does not drain well, improve it by adding nutrients, raising the beds, or installing drain lines.
Almost any soil can benefit from organic materials, especially sandy and heavy clay soils.
Fertilizing
Mix bone meal or superphosphate into the soil at the bottom of each planting hole. Because phosphorus does not move easily; it must be planted deep enough to allow the roots to reach it.
Planting
Try to plant your bulbs as soon as you can when the weather permits and is suitable for planting. If you can’t plant them right away, store them in a cool place such as your refrigerator. Never store them in closed bags as they might rot. Bulbs need to breathe!
Open the bags or place them instead in paper ones.
Most bulbs are planted at a depth three times their diameter. It’s easier if you dig up a larger area at the proper depth, set them inside the hole, and then cover them.
For more great gardening tips:
http://www.ez-gardening-tips.com
Sat, May 2 2009 » Bouquet » No Comments
What are perennial bulbs? Bulb is a general term used by gardeners for plants which are highly condensed; their embryonic roots, stem, leaves and flower are all contained within them. Their resting period will end and growth begin when optimum moisture and temperature conditions exist. These conditions vary as different bulbs have different flowering and resting periods, but as perennials they will die down and produce new growth year on year.
Perennial bulbs are easily grown, and can provide wonderful color in the garden all year round. The vast range of perennial bulbs available means you can have dramatic, vibrant color or, if you prefer, more muted, restful shades. The garden has been described as a series of outdoor rooms. So, switch on the spotlight for bold splashes of tulips and daffodils in the spring; switch on the dimmer and, in the fall and winter, enjoy the tapestry of pastel shades created by a carpet of blue crocuses or pink cyclamens.
Before planting perennial bulbs it would be useful to consult the color wheel. Imagine a clock face divided into six, ten-minute sections. Starting at twelve o’clock, and turning clockwise, we move through.the color spectrum: green, blue, violet, red, orange and yellow. Colors from opposite segments of the circle will produce the most dramatic effects: violet tulips and golden daffodils, for example. Colors from adjacent segments produce a more muted effect: purple crocuses and the beautiful blue starry bells of scillas.
The hot colors are found mainly in perennial bulbs which flower in late spring and summer. Tulips, crocosmias and the stately cannas all offer dramatic color at this time. Crocosmias and cannas all offer dramatic color at this time. Crocosmias and cannas will have their vibrancy muted to an extent by their bold, architectual leaves. In a mixed border, you can turn on the spotlight by planting a large perennial bulb such as a canna: its foliage will create the drama as much as its color.
By contrast, using cool perennial bulbs of pale blue, blue pink and even pale primrose, can make a very restful display, particularly in an arrangement of patio containers or in sinuous drifts winding through a border. A truly breathtaking sight is a random planting of cool perennial bulbs in your garden, under a deciduous tree, for example, which copies, on a small scale, a woodland setting. Muscari, colchicums and bluebells will lend a quiet charm to your miniature woodland garden. The dimmer switch has been turned down low.
Of course, coolness is often associated with white. But the component colors of the color wheel, including the “hot” ones, together make white light. It is in this combination of “white-hot” that some of the most exquisite effects can be achieved with perennial bulbs. Scattered through spring and fall borders, when light levels are less intense, the vertical accents of the white snakes’ head fritillary, white tulips and the milky-white flowers of the cochicums help create a quiet drama. Both the spotlight and the dimmer are on together. Irresistible - plant perennial bulbs in the garden for stunningly beautiful, year-round color.
©2006 Maureen P Cook
Maureen Cook shows you how the wonderful range of
colors found in perennial bulbs can light up your garden.
To find out more about Perennial
bulbs, Click Here
Wed, April 29 2009 » Bouquet » No Comments